Son said, adding, “I had to create everything from the base since I had no examples.”Īt her bakery in Seoul, Patisserie Armoni, she flavors financiers with sweet potato, black sesame and bean rice cake, and hallabong, the Korean tangerine. “Because Jungsik is the first fine dining in Korea, there’s no example of any modern Korean dessert,” Ms. Neither quite prepared her for a seven-and-a-half-year tenure at Jungsik in New York and Seoul. Son purchased about 50 American and French cookbooks on cookies, cakes, bread and professional pastry, and watched famed pastry chefs like Cédric Grolet and Amaury Guichon at work on YouTube. After graduating from culinary art programs in Busan, South Korea, where she grew up, and in New York City, Ms.
Other pastry chefs, like Yona Son, had to pursue French training in less conventional ways.
That makes our food and our place very special.” “We’re used to having Korean food, and we’re used to learning from Korean moms. “We are trying to make our food based on French food, but we are Korean,” said Mrs. Her pain perdu looks more like a lava rock than French toast: crisp tuiles of seoritae, the nutty black soybeans, overlap to form a peak above a textural heap of seoritae ice cream, caramelized pecans and vanilla-soaked brioche. Park returned to London to open Sollip, which received a Michelin star last year.
But she never forgot her pastry dreams.Īfter nearly a year of waiting for an entrepreneur visa, she and Mr. She started a family with her husband, the chef Woongchul Park, and for a moment, considered leaving the stress of restaurant life. Visa issues, a common obstacle for international chefs, took her back to South Korea. Inside, you’ll find that emoji-like corn mousse the Lysée, her signature brown rice mousse cake, which looks like a midcentury Polly Pocket piece and a fervor for each (the shop sets a limit of one corn mousse per reservation).īomee Ki, who is from Gwangju, South Korea, studied pastry at the Le Cordon Bleu in London for a strategic reason: She understood English, not French. Lee has since honed her style at Lysée, the pastry shop she opened with her husband, the chef Matthieu Lobry, nearly a year ago in the Flatiron district of Manhattan.
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